Climbing in Himalayas

Himalayan Triptych Reactivated - 2008 climbing season.

11:27 am CDT Jun 24, 2008

Gasherbrums traverse - Himalayan Trilogy Reactivation

Meanwhile on G1, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor plan to top out G1 following a bivouac 200-300 m below the top.

“Today morning they woke up late, deep snow and heavy backpacks. They bivouacked 200-300 m below the top of G1. Tomorrow they plan to get to the top and descend on other side and spend night at 7500,” reports Olga Morawska.

10:17 am CDT Jun 23, 2008

Gasherbrums traverse - Himalayan Trilogy Reactivation

Climbers going up

According to an update on Peter Hamor’s website, the Himalayan Trilogy team reached 7 450 m yesterday in their Gasherbrum traverse.

12:30 pm CDT Jun 20, 2008

Gasherbrums traverse - Himalayan Trilogy Reactivation

Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor began their Gasherbrums Traverse, pushing up the Spanish route on G1 with heavy backpacks. After two days of ice climbing, they have reached 6600 m where they are currently bivouacking on small platform, expedition leader Piotr Pustelnik reports to ExplorersWeb.

Currently halted by snowfall, they are unable to neither ascend nor descend while the weather forecast is bad. Fortunately, the two climbers brought with them food and gas for almost ten days.

10:31 am CDT Jun 18, 2008

Gasherbrums traverse - Himalayan Trilogy Reactivation

Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor left ABC (5 650m) on Monday early morning, to climb the SW Face - Spanish route on Gasherbrum I and then continue the traverse of GI, GII and GIII. After climbing 1 000 meters in steep ice with heavy backpacks they reached the altitude of 6 600 meters and will continue tomorrow.

* previous story :

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated - 2008 season part 2# and 3#: Gasherbrum and Broad Peak traverses. Tryptyk Reaktywacja - 2008. /Version english and polish/

Himalayan Triptych Reactivated.

Tryptyk Reaktywacja. Relacje z wyprawy.

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: Piotr i Peter ruszyli do góry

Olga Morawska

16 czerwca 2008 11:44

16 czerwca 2008 r., wiadomość sms od Piotra Morawskiego: “Wbiliśmy się w drogę hiszpańską (prawa grań południowo-zachodniej ściany) i rozbiliśmy namiot na 5650 m. Plecaki tak ciężkie, że tylko myślę o tym, by już schodzić z G1 na drugą stronę!”

“Jutro strome podejście i długie, na razie przyszła chmura i pada lekki śnieg. Zaraz trzeba spać by wypocząć przed jutrem. Wstajemy o 4 rano”.

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: na drodze hiszpańskiej

Olga Morawska

18 czerwca 2008 09:19

17 czerwca 2008 r. po 18.00, wiadomość sms od Piotra Morawskiego: “Jesteśmy na 6600, droga hiszpańska to 1000 metrów czystego lodu i tylko jedno miejsce na odpoczynek.”

“Ciężkie plecaki i ciągłe wspinanie zabrało wszystkie siły. Myślałem, że nie damy rady znaleźć plateau na namiot. Po 10 h znaleźliśmy jednak. Dzisiejszy dzień to jedna z moich cięższych wspinaczek, ale właśnie to jest piękne w stylu alpejskim: nigdy nie wiesz co spotkasz. Jutro rest. Po jutrze ostatnie 300 metrów po drodze hiszpańskiej i wychodzimy na amerykańską”.

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: zasypani na 6600 m

Olga Morawska

19 czerwca 2008 11:16

Chłopaki zasypani siedzą wciąż na 6600.

Oto dzisiejszy sms od Piotrka:

“Utkwiliśmy na drugim biwaku. Śnieg sypie od 30 godzin nieustannie, ani do góry ani w dół. Czekamy na lepszą pogodę.”

Rozmawiałam z Piotrkiem po 16:00 naszego czasu, u nich była już noc - śnieg niestety wciąż padał

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: w śnieżnej klatce

Olga Morawska

20 czerwca 2008 11:17

20 czerwca 2008 r. po 6.00, wiadomość sms od Piotra Morawskiego: “Cały czas tkwimy na drugim biwaku i cały czas pada śnieg. Ani zejść do bazy, ani do góry. Dobrze, że jedzenia i gazów zabraliśmy na 10 dni.”

“Polepszenia pogody podobno nie będzie przez najbliższe 2 - 3 dni. Pozdrawiamy z naszej śnieżnej klatki pod wierzchołkiem G1. Jak tylko ruszymy damy znać, czas oszczędzać baterie.”

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: koniec drogi hiszpańskiej

Olga Morawska

21 czerwca 2008 11:36

Prognoza pogody nie sprawdziła się. Chłopaki mieli 21.06 piękne słońce. Skończyli drogę hiszpańską!

Dotarli do miejsca, gdzie spotykają się droga hiszpańska i amerykańska. Biwakują na wysokości około 6900. Niestety w wieczornych sms’ach Piotr pisał, że znów zaczął padać śnieg. Miejmy nadzieję, że do rana się wypada!

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: 7450 m

Olga Morawska

22 czerwca 2008 11:37

Sms od Piotra Morawskiego z 22.06 tuż po 18:00: “Mimo kiepskiej pogody poszliśmy dalej. Dziś dzień torowania w głębokim śniegu, opadów i silnego wiatru.”

“Dopiero wieczorem znaleźliśmy miejsce na namiot na ok. 7450. U nas noc, dopiero zaczynamy gotować. Jutro w ciągu dnia musimy odpocząć, zjechaliśmy się kompletnie!”.

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: pogoda nie odpuszcza

Olga Morawska

24 czerwca 2008 13:10

Wiadomość od Piotra Morawskiego z 24.06: “Rano mieliśmy złą pogodę, wystartowaliśmy późno, śnieg głęboki, dla dwóch z plecakami ciężko. Złapaliśmy biwak 200 - 300 m pod szczytem.”

“Oby jutro dało się przekopać i zejść na drugą stronę. Kolejny biwak w okolicach 7500. Już mocno czuć wysokość.”

* Źródła: - http://www.goryonline.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z innych wypraw polskich himalaistów.

I would like to invite you to watch one of movie of Everest collection…

A guided tour of the trek to Sacred Lakes of Nepal, Solu Khumbu area, Sherpa people and MT Everest.
/click title of this post and watch movie../

From 1921 to 1938 all the British attempts were made via the North Col - North East Ridge route from Tibet. After the Second World War all routes to Mount Everest were forbidden and closed. In 1951 China occupied Tibet, the Chinese stopped all foreign travellers from gaining access to Everest from the traditional route. The British turned there sights to the South Side in Nepal. Permission was granted, which eventually led to the successful 1953 Expedition.

Today, you can reach Mount Everest from both Tibet and Nepal. They both welcome climbers and visitors from all over the world.

Mount Everest, also called Chomolungma or Qomolangma or Sagarmatha (Nepali: सगरमाथा) is the highest mountain on Earth, as measured by the height of its summit above sea level, which is 8,848 meters or 29,028 feet. The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet. By the end of the 2007 climbing season there had been 3,679 ascents to the summit by 2,436 individuals. There have been 210 deaths on the mountain, where conditions are so difficult that most corpses have been left where they fell; some are visible from standard climbing routes.^[4]

Climbers range from experienced mountaineers to relative novices who count on their paid guides to get them to the top. This means climbers are a significant source of tourist revenue for Nepal, whose government also requires all prospective climbers to obtain an expensive permit, costing up to $25,000 (USD) per person.^[5]

1. Routes - part 1.Drogi do celu. cz.1. /Version polish and english/

2. Routes - part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

3. Routes - part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

4. Routes - part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

5. Routes - part 5. Drogi do celu. cz.5. /Version polish and english/

6. Routes - part 6. Drogi do celu. cz.6. /Version polish and english/

7. Routes - part 7. Drogi do celu. cz.7. /Version polish and english/

to see live this map click on : ChomolungmaNirvana-theRoutesofMountEverestMay292004.shtml

On the Lap of the Mighty Sagarmatha - Solu Khumbu or Everest region.

The Everest or Solu-Khumbu region lies on the eastern part of Nepal. Inhabited by the mountain people who have lived in harmony with their surroundings for hundreds of years, the Solu-Khumbu region has still retained its age old practices. The region which has some of the world’s tallest peaks gained fame with the identification of the world’s tallest peak Everest (8848m) in this region. In terms of popularity among trekkers,this region ranks second only to Annapurna region. This maybe because of its high elevation. The villages and places lying in this region are situated above the 2000m mark. Solu at the south includes villages like Junbesi ,Phaplu and Chiwong. Pharak is situated between Solu and Khumbu. Khumbu include villages Namche bazaar, Thami, Khumjung, Kunde , Pangboche and Tengboche.

The major mountains are the Mt.Everest, Mt.Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Pumori, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kantega, Mera Peak and Island Peak.

Mt. Everest, which is part of the Himalaya range, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet. Rising to a height of 8848m, the world’s highest mountain was named in 1865 after Sir George Everest. The mountain got its Nepali name Sagarmatha during the 1960s, when the Government of Nepal gave the mountain the official Nepali name. In sanskrit Sagarmatha means “mother of the universe”. The Tibetan name for Mount Everest is Chomolungma or Qomolangma, which means “Goddess Mother of the Snows”. Climbers wishing to scale the peak have to obtain an expensive permit from the Nepal Government, often costing more than $25,000 (USD) per person. Base Camp, which serves as a resting area and base of operations for climbers organizing their attempts for the summit, is located on the Khumbu glacier at an elevation of 5300 m (17,400 ft); it receives an average of 450 mm (18 in) of precipitation a year. The climate of Mount Everest is extreme In July, the warmest month, the average summit temperature is -19° C (-2° F).

When George Mallory, the British climber was asked why he wanted to climb Everest he replied ‘Because it is there’. After two unsuccessful attempts, in 1924 he again tried to climb the peak with Andrew Irvine. They started on June 8, 1924 to scale the summit via the north col route and never returned. Their bodies were later discovered by the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition near the old Chinese camp in 1999. Edmund Hillary, a New Zealander and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal were the first two climbers to set foot on the summit of Mt.Everest. They reached the summit at 11:30 a.m. on May 29, 1953 by climbing through the South Col Route. More than 300 climbers have scaled the highest mountain since then. Also there have been more than 100 deaths on the mountain where conditions are so difficult that most corpses have been left where they fell, some of them visible from standard climbing routes.

Mt. Lhotse (8516m) is the fourth highest mountain in the world. It lies south of Mt. Everest. It was first climbed by two Swiss climbers F. Luchsinger and E. Reiss in 1956 from the West face. The Czech scaled it via the South face in 1984.
An impressive ring of three peaks makes up the Lhotse massif: Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse and Lhotse Shar. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world.

Cho Oyu, (8201m) the sixth highest mountain in the world, has gained popularity among climbers just recently. The mountain sits on both sides of the border of Nepal and Tibet, about 30 km. west of Mount Everest. Cho Oyu in Tibetan means “the turquoise goddess .” The south face of Cho Oyu, facing Nepal, is quite steep and difficult, and is rarely climbed. The north side, accessed from Tibet, is more moderate, and there is a relatively safe route to the summit. In the autumn of 1954, an Austrian team made the first ascent via this route.

Ama Dablam (6856m)

which means ‘mother’s jewellery box’, in sherpa language is considered to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Seen from below, the mountain looks like a woman with outstretched arms or a woman wearing a long necklace. Ama Dablam lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley. Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest can be seen at close quarters from Ama dablam.

Nuptse (7,855m.) lies south west of Mt Everest. It is situated in the Khumbu Himal. From the Thyangboche Monastery Nuptse appears as a massive wall guarding the approach to Everest. The name Nup-tse in Tibetan means west-peak. The main ridge, which is separated from Lhotse by a 7556m high saddle, is crowned by seven peaks and goes west-northwest until its steep west-face drops down more than 2300m to the Khumbu-glacier. Nuptse I was first summited by a British expedition on May 16, 1961

Pumori

peak at 7145m is just 8 km away from the world’s highest peak Mt.Everest. The ascent to this peak is described as a classic climb in the 7000m peak category. In Tibetan, ‘Pumo’ means girl and ‘Ri’, mountain. The peak was named by George Mallory, the famous English climber who lost his life trying to ascend Everest in 1924. The German climber Gerhard Lenser was the first to reach the summit of Pumori peak in 1962. Pumori is a popular climbing peak and the easiest. The best season to climb this peak is during autumn and spring.

Mera Peak (6,475m) is the highest of Nepal’s trekking peaks. By its standard route, it is also the highest peak in Nepal that can be climbed without prior mountaineering experience. It was first climbed on 20 May 1953, by J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing, from the standard route at Mera La. The mountain lies to the south of Everest, dominating the watershed between the wild and beautiful valleys of the Hinku and Hongu.

Island Peak also known as Imja Tse at 6160m was named by Erick Shipton’s group in 1953.It was so named as the peak resembles an island in a sea of ice when observed from Dingboche. The peak was first climbed in 1953 by a British group as preparation for climbing Mt. Everest. Among them one of the climbers was Mr. Tenzing Norgay. The peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and the main land forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar. Cho Oyu and Makalu lie to the east of the Island Peak. Baruntse, Amphu and Ama Dablam lie to the south.

Lobuche(6,119m)

is known as Lhauche among the Locals. It rises above the town of Lhauche which is just a few kilometer from Mt. Everest. The first ascent on this peak was done by Laurice Nielson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa on 25 April 1984.

Kalapattar is a small mountain 5,545 m (18,500 ft) high on the southern flank of Pumori (7,145 m). It is a trekking peak and every year tourists climb this peak to enjoy the fantastic panoramic views it offers of the Khumbu glacier, the Everest and nearby peaks like Lhotse and Nuptse. To the east, Makalu, Amadablam, Pumori, and Cho Oyu are visible.

Climate, Flora & Fauna
The climate in the Everest region can be divided into four climate zones owing to the gradual rise in altitude. The climatic zones include a forested lower zone, a zone of alpine scrub, the upper alpine zone which includes upper limit of vegetation growth, and the Arctic zone where no plants can grow. The types of plants and animals that are found depend on the altitude. In the lower forested zone, birch, juniper, blue pines, firs, bamboo and rhododendron grow. All vegetation that is found above this zone is shrubs. As the altitude increases, plant life is restricted to lichens and mosses. At an elevation of 5,750m begins the permanent snow line in the Himalayas. From this point there is no sign of greenery or vegetation. A common animal sighted in the higher reaches is the hairy animal yak. Dzopkyo a sterile male crossbreed between a yak and a cow is used to move goods along the trail. Red panda, snow leopard, musk deer, wild yak, and Himalayan black bear are some of the more exotic animals that are found in this region. A variety of birds can be sighted in the lower regions.

Sagarmata (Mt. Everest) National Park

The Sagarmatha National Park is the highest national park in the world. It was formally opened to public in July 19, 1976. The park covers an area of 1,148 sq km. It rises from its lowest point of 2,845 m (9,335 ft) at Jorsale to 8,850 m (29,035 ft) up to the summit of Everest. The park’s area is very rugged and steep, with its terrain cut by deep rivers and glaciers. It includes three peaks higher than 8,000 m, including Mt Everest. In 1979 the park was inscribed as a Natural World Heritage Site. The park’s visitor centre is located at a hill in Namche Bazaar, where a company of the Nepal Royal Army is stationed for protecting the park. The park’s southern entrance is a few hundred meters north of Monjo at 2,835 m. Trekking and climbing groups must bring their own fuel to the park (usually butane and kerosene), and the cutting of wood is prohibited. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control, funded by the World Wildlife Fund and the Himalayan Trust, was established in 1991 to help preserve Everest’s environment. About a humdred species of birds and more than twenty species of butterflies have made this park their home. Musk deer, wild yak, red panda, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear, Himalayan thars, deer, langur monkeys, hares, mountain foxes, martens, and Himalayan wolves are found in the park

People & Places

Places

Jiri
Early expeditions to climb Everest from the Nepalese side started from Jiri. Before the airstrip at Lukla came into existence all the trekking and climbing expeditions to the Everest region started from Jiri. Starting from Jiri, the route passes through the Sherpa villages of the Solu Khumbu, many of them having beautiful Buddhist monasteries.

Lukla
Lukla, a village in Khumbu boast of the region’s sole airport.Lying at a height of 9000ft, most travelers to this region usually begin and end their adventure in Lukla. The airport was built in 1964 by Sir Edmund Hillary as part of his project in Khumbu region during the early 60s to transport the supplies for the Himalayan Trust projects in the Khumbu region. Today, somewhere between 90-95% of the foreign nationals who reach Lukla, arrive by a half hour flight from Kathmandu.

Namche Bazar
Namche Bazar is known as the sherpa capital. Namche is actually a village lying at the junction of the Dudh Koshi and a valley that leads to the frontier pass of Nangpa La . It is tucked away in a niche at a height of 7,845 ft. W. H. Tilman and C. Houston were the first westerners to enter it in 1950 and many more have come since then. Facilities like a bank, a post office, hotels and shops where one can purchase climbing equipment as well as tinned food have sprung up over the years. Namche Bazar is the major regional trading center. Its Saturday market or haat is the place where most of the trading takes place. The headquarters of the Sagarmatha National Park is located in Namche.

Thyangboche
Thyangboche is famous for the Thyangboche gompa. It is one of the most important centers of Buddhism in the region. The gompa is the largest in the Khumbu region. It was first built in 1923. Destroyed by a fire in 1989, it was rebuilt later on partly with foreign aid. From Thyangboche, one gets a panoramic view of Kwangde, Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Amadablam, Kangtenga, and Thamserku.

Pangboche
Buddhism is believed to have been introduced in the Khumbu region towards the end of the 17th century by Lama Sange Dorjee. According to the legend, he flew over the Himalayas and landed on a rock at Pangboche and Thyangboche, leaving his footprints embedded on the stone. He is believed to have been responsible for the founding of the first gompas in the Khumbu region, at Pangboche and Thami. Pangboche is the highest year-round settlement in the valley. The Imja Khola, coming from the right, joins the Dudh Koshi River a little above the village. The gompa (monastery) in Phyangboche is thought to be one of the oldest in the Khumbu region.

Khumjung
Khumjung , a village lying west of Thyangboche, is famous for the gompa where the skull of a supposed Yeti, the Abominable Snowman, is preserved under the supervision of the head Lama. The skull seems more like the outer skin of Himalayan Brown Bear, and this is proved by the report of a scientific exploratory expedition conducted by Sir Edmund Hillary, a copy of which is kept in the gompa.

Pheriche
Pheriche is located at an altitude of 13,845 ft. It lies on a level patch. Apart from the basic facilities available here, there is a medical-aid post maintained by the Himalayan Rescue Association of the Tokyo Medical College with Japanese doctors in attendance. Among other facilities, there is an air compression chamber installed for assisting victims of high altitude sickness

Gokyo
The scenic village of Gokyo lies below the hilly Gokyo Ri(5483m). The village is a cluster of stone houses and walled pastures.One has to pass by the holy Gokyo lakes on the way to the village. The Ngozumpa Glacier Nepal’s longest glacier at 25 miles has to be traversed enroute to this remote village. Gokyo Ri looms above the village on the northern edge of the lake. The summits of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu are visible from the summit of Gokyo Ri.

Thami
Thami at 3750m is in a large valley. The village has a police checkpost and a few lodges and tea shops. A little above the village is the Thami gompa, which is the site of the annual Mani Rimdu festival.

People

Sherpas live in the upper regions of Solu Khumbu. They emigrated from Tibet about 600 years ago. In the past they were traders and porters, carrying butter, meat, rice, sugar, and dye from India, and, wool, jewelry, salt Chinese silk and porcelain from Tibet and beyond. The closure of the border between India and China undermined their economy. Fortunately, with the mountaineering expeditions and trekkers, the Sherpa’s found their load carrying skills, both on normal treks and high altitudes in great demand. The Khumbu region has provided a strong group of able bodied, hardy and fearless Sherpa porters and guides. The sherpas are Buddhists.

At the lower elevations lives the Kiranti Rai. The villages of Jubing, Kharikhola, Okhaldhunga, are inhabited by the Rais. Of mongoloid stock they speak their own dialect. Reference is made of their fighting spirit in the Hindu epic Mahabharata. The people from this group have supplied recruits to Gurkha regiments both in the British as well as Indian armies. The Rais follow a religion that is partly animistic with a strong Hindu influence. They revere their ancestors by observing Kul or Pitri puja every year.

The Jirels live in the area around Jiri. They are mongoloid and follow Buddhism.

Festivals

Losar is celebrated in the month of February by the Sherpas. ‘Losar’ means New Year in Tibetan. Apart from the Sherpas and Tibetans, the Gurungs and Tamangs also celebrate Losar. Buddhist monks offer prayers for good health and prosperity at monasteries. People exchange various goods and gifts among them. Families organize feasts and perform dances.

Dumje is celebrated to mark the birthday of Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava).The celebration takes place in June and lasts for six days. It is celebrated in a big way in the villages of Namche, Thame and Khumjung.

Mani Rimdu is a festival that celebrates the victory of Buddhism over the ancient animistic religion of Bon. This festival is celebrated in the monasteries of Thyangboche, Chiwang and Thami. At Thangboche the celebration takes place during the November- December full moon. At Thami the Mani rimdu is festival is celebrated during the full moon in May.Chiwang Gompa generally celebrate this festival during autumn. The lamas wear elaborate brocade gowns and papier-mâché masks while performing. Through the dances, symbolic demons are conquered, dispelled, or converted to Dharma Protectors as positive forces clash with those of chaos. The dances convey Buddhist teaching on many levels from the simplest to the most profound, for those who do not have the opportunity to study and meditate extensively. It gives an opportunity to the Sherpas to gather and celebrate together with the monks.

Sakela (Chandi Dance) is a harvest festival celebrated by the Rai community. The harvest ceremony involves the worship of mother earth, called ‘Bhumi-Puja’. The festival is celebrated twice a year, once in spring before planting begins and once during autumn before harvesting. Ubhauli is celebrated during the spring season on Baishakh Purnima. In the autumn season on Mangsir Purnima, Udhauli is celebrated. The spring worship is done to propitiate mother earth for a good harvest and the rain god to bless the earth with enough rain. The festival is celebrated with more fervor in the remote hills. The Rai villagers celebrate it with priests (dhami) who perform rituals to worship their ancestors. The elders of the community begin the dance with a puja. Later on everybody participate in the dance forming a circle by holding each other’s hands. With drumbeats, they begin dancing at a slow pace but moves faster later with the drumbeats. The dance steps and hand gestures imitate the sowing and harvesting of crops .The festival also provides an opportunity for the Rai people to socialise.

The Classic Everest Base Camp Trek

Mt Everest Base Camp is the most popular destination for trekkers in Nepal. Its popularity has grown since the first expedition to the Nepalese side of Everest in the 1950s.One can do this trek the old way, by beginning the trek from Jiri. From Jiri it takes around nine days to reach Namche. On the way you will come across Rai settlements. The other (quicker) alternative is to take a flight to Lukla and to begin the trek from there. The trek follows the Dudh Kosi valley route with an ascent up to the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar. From Namche, you traverse along a high path from where you have the first good view of Everest. You head towards Thyangboche Monastery located on top of a mountain ridge and then descend the Imja Khola and continue to the villages of Pangboche and Pheriche. After that you arrive at the Khumbu Glacier. The trek through the glacier takes you first to Lobuche and then to Gorak Shep. From Gorak Shep you can climb up to Kala Pattar for even more spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, including Everest’s south west face. Yhou then reach your destination, the Everest Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu ice fall.

oryginal post by : - http://himalman.wordpress.com/

The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia.

The first attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery, and J. Norman Collie to Nanga Parbat in 1895; this ended in failure, when Mummery and two Ghurkas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.

The first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders was Reinhold Messner. He completed this task on October 16, 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber to accomplish this feat. As of 2007, a total of fourteen people have followed through. This is an extremely hazardous feat; at least four people have died while in pursuit of this goal.

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Ośmiotysięcznik - popularne wśród himalaistów jak również miłośników gór i geografów określenie szczytu, którego wierzchołek wznosi się na ponad 8 tysięcy metrów wysokości ponad poziom morza. Takich szczytów na Ziemi wyróżnia się czternaście - 10 w Himalajach i 4 w Karakorum. Wśród nich wyróżnia się pięć tak zwanych wysokich ośmiotysięczników, czyli Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse i Makalu, mające ponad 8500 metrów (w przypadku Makalu - prawie). Warto zauważyć, że magia 8000 metrów występuje tylko w układzie metrycznym miar. W anglosaskim układzie wysokości szczytów podajemy w stopach i wtedy pojawiają się dwudziesto- i dwudziestopięciotysięczniki.Całą czternastkę ośmiotysięczników nazywa się niezbyt precyzyjnie Koroną Himalajów, prawidłowo Korona Himalajów i Karakorum. Kolejni zdobywcy Korony wymienieni są w odnośnym artykule. Błędną nazwą jest Koroną Gór, która określa najwyższe szczyty górskie wszystkich kontynentów.

Na wysokości 8000 metrów ciśnienie atmosferyczne (a co za tym idzie zawartość tlenu w powietrzu) jest prawie trzykrotnie mniejsze niż na poziomie morza. Jest to główna przyczyna, dla której pierwsze wejście człowieka na wierzchołek szczytu ośmiotysięcznego miało miejsce dopiero w 1950 roku (Annapurna). Wcześniej jednak osiągano i przekraczano granicę ośmiu tysięcy metrów, na przykład podczas prób zdobycia Everestu przez wyprawy brytyjskie w latach 20 ubiegłego wieku.

Himalayan Trilogy once again, Himalayan Triptych Reactivated - 2008 climbing season.

Gasherbrum and Broad Peak traverses.

/Jun 09, 2008/ “The three-week rest that we took after the first part of the Himalayan Triptych Reactivated has come to an end,” reported Piotr Morawski last week. “We summitted Ama Dablam and then climbed on the Czech route on the NW face of Annapurna, which was one of the most beautiful expeditions I’d ever participated in. A mere 150 metres and a bit of luck was all we lacked to reach the top…”

“Still, it’s time to go back to our project, with parts two and three in one go. Peter Hamor and I are setting off to traverse the three Gasherbrum peaks: starting with GI (8068), via GII (8035) to GIII (7952), a long traverse that has never been completed in full before. We will ascend via the American route from Gasherbrum I side and descend from the pass between GII and GIII.”

“Then Piotr Pustelnik will join us for a Broad Peak’s traverse. Such climb that was first done in 1984 by Kurtyka and Kukuczka. They started from K2 Base Camp, climbed across the two Broad Peaks and descended from the main Broad Peak via the normal route. However, from the top of BP there is a beautiful ridge going down towards Concordia that has never been done in full and which we would like to climb to accomplish a complete traverse of Broad Peak’s points.”

Piotr’s mate Peter Hamor reported yesterday from Paiju - the climbers shall be on their way to Urdukas today.

* see part # 1mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition :

- Himalayan Trilogy once again, part 4 - Annapurna West Face. Tryptyk Reaktywacja, cz. 4: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition. /Version english and polish/

- Himalayan Trilogy once again, part 3 - Annapurna West Face. Tryptyk Reaktywacja, cz. 3: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition. /Version polish/

- Himalayan Trilogy once again, part 2 - Annapurna West Face. Tryptyk Reaktywacja, cz. 2: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition. /Version english and polish/

- Himalayan Trilogy once again, part 1 - Annapurna West Face. Tryptyk Reaktywacja, cz. 1: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition. /Version english and polish/

Himalayan Trilogy once again, Tryptyk Reaktywacja 2008.

TRYPTYK REAKTYWACJA - część II i III

Minęły trzy tygodnie odpoczynku, które mieliśmy po zakończeniu pierwszej części Tryptyku Reaktywacji. Weszliśmy na Ama Dablam w ramach aklimatyzacji, zrobiliśmy drogę czeską na zachodniej ścianie Annapurny, jedno z najpiękniejszych przedsięwzięć, w których miałem okazję brać udział. Zabrakło 150metrów i łutu szczęścia by znaleźć się na szczycie…
Czas zatem już wracać do Tryptyku Reaktywacji. Tym razem dwie części naraz. Aklimatyzację już mamy. Można od razu zacząć akcję górską…

część druga i trzecia:

trawers Gasherbrumów I,II,III
trawers Broad Peaku

Najpierw idziemy we dwóch z Peterem Hamoremna grań Gasherbrumów od GI (8068m) poprzez GII (8035m) do GIII (7952m). Rozpoczynamy drogą amerykańską od strony Gasherbruma I, a schodzimy z głębokiej przełęczy pomiędzy GII, a GIII. Trawers ten w całości nie został nigdy pokonany. Następnie ma dołączyć Piotr Pustelnik i udajemy się już we trzech na grań Broad Peaku, która została pokonana przez Kurtykę i Kukuczkę. Zaczęli oni od strony bazy pod K2, a zeszli z wierzchołka drogą normalną (przechodząc przez dwa pozostałe wierzchołki Broad Peaku). Z samego szczytu jest jeszcze piękna grań schodząca w stronę Concordii, której jeszcze nikt w całości nie przeszedł. Chcielibyśmy ją pokonać kończąc tym samym pełny trawers Broad Peaku.

Gasherbrum I (8068 mnpm) zwany również Hidden Peak, kiedyś określany jako K5, został pierwszy raz zdobyty 5 lipca1958 roku przez Andrew Kauffmana i Peterea Schoeninga z USA. 23 lipca1983 roku jako pierwsi Polacy na szczycie stanęli Kurtyka i Kukuczka pokonując południowo-zachodnią ścianę w stylu alpejskim. Z wierzchołka grań północna przechodzi przez przełęcz Gasherbrum i dochodzi do Gasherbruma II.

Gasherbrum II (8035 mnpm), czyli K4 na starych mapach, pierwszy raz został zdobyty przez Austriaków w 1956roku. Na jego szczycie do tej pory stanęło ponad 40 Polaków.Większość wejść odbywa się drogą normalną. Ostatni w naszych planach pierwszej grani, czyli Gasherbrum III (7952 mnpm) nie jest górą zbyt popularną, może dlatego że nie ma 8000 metrów. Po raz pierwszy zdobyty został przez Polaków w 1975 roku.

Broad Peak (8047 mnpm) to trzeci ośmiotysięcznik znajdujący się w masywie Gasherbum. W ramach Tryptyku Himalajskiego w2006 roku 8 lipca na wierzchołku stanął Piotr Pustelnik i Peter Hamor,dzień później Piotr Morawski. Początkowym planem wtedy było zrobienie nowej drogi na grani, którą w tym roku mamy zamiar zakończyć trawers.

Zatem roboty sporo, czasu też pod dostatkiem.Trawersy na tych wysokościach są dużym wysiłkiem dla organizmu ze względu na wiele dni na dużej wysokości. Poprzednie lata (chociażby wschodnia grań Annapurny) oraz ten sezon przygotowały nas dobrze zarówno do wysiłku na dużej wysokości, jak i do szybkiego wspinania i poruszania się w trudnym terenie. Oby tylko pogoda dopisała, za co trzymajcie kciuki! Burza na Annapurnie pokazała nam, że niewiele od nas potrafi zależeć, nawet jeśli jesteśmy prawie pewnisukcesu.

Wyprawa wyrusza 1 czerwca z Warszawy. Czerwiec przewidywany jest na trawers Gasherbrumów. Pod koniec czerwca przylatuje Piotr Pustelnik i rozpoczynamy drugą część projektu na Broad Peaku. Powrót planowany jest na koniec lipca.

Jesteśmy wdzięczni sponsorom, bezktórych wyprawa nie odbyłaby się. Chciałbym też złożyćszczególne podziękowania dla firmy Alpinus,która aktywnie pomogła w zwalczaniu piętrzących siękłopotów i usunęła wiele kłód spod nóg oraz firmie Kelvin za pomoc w ostatnim momencie.

od lewej:
Piotr Pustelnik - jest zdobywcą 13 ośmiotysięczników, brałudział w wielu wyprawach w Himalaje, Karakorum i góryświata, wspina się w górach wysokich od 1985 roku
Piotr Morawski –zdobywca 4 ośmiotysięczników,jako pierwszy człowiek zdobył Shisha Pangma zimą, jego domeną są rzadkouczęszczane drogi, jak zimowe, czy powtórzenia rzadko robionychdróg.
Peter Hamor – zdobywca 5 ośmiotysięczników,najlepszy słowacki himalaista, zdobywca Korony Ziemi, ma na koncie 2 wejścia na szczyty ośmiotysięczne jako pierwszy Słowak.

** Źródła: - http://www.piotrmorawski.com/- http://himalman.wordpress.com/

*** zapraszam na relacje z innych wypraw polskich himalaistów.

I Recommend …

MountEverest.net - http://www.mounteverest.net/

ExWeb’s tribute to Inaki Ochoa: When good men die.

We want wild adventure, but go on guided trips. We want a lake-side cottage; but buy a large house in suburbia. We dream of a husky-wolf, but get a lap-dog. We shovel our fist in our mouth; and go through life unheard.

That’s why it is so difficult to lose a man like Inaki.

Everyone had met Inaki Ocha de Olza once. Contrary to many of his breed, he mingled with everyone, across borders and language barriers. Those who went up for him did it not because he had climbed 12, 8000ers. They did it because he was Inaki.

A man who did what he wanted, and said what he pleased. Inaki’s courage extended beyond mountains, and his heart exactly made him loved a bit more than others.

Mountains, friends, and freedom.

We went on to exploration in the polar areas and on the oceans, moved to US and started ExplorersWeb. We wanted to change a few things in the world of adventure; and provide an alternative to the prevailing journalism covering famous names and braggy or snobbish individuals over true achievement.

The site came as a result of many debates in camps with our fellow adventurers - and climbers just like Inaki. We wanted to be seen for what we did; not for whom we knew or for playing cheap tricks for fools.

For Inaki Kangchenjunga, his first Himalayan giant, had set his priorities straight already back in 1990: “with ‘love for life and freedom’ being on top, and ‘money’ on the bottom,” he said:

“Kangchenjunga was, to me, an awakening in the Zen sense of the word. I realized for the first time, and strongly, that there was a path ahead of me, and I only had to follow it, without setting up obstacles, without fear, without regrets. It was much easier than what people may think, and I never looked back.”

In spite of several attempts, Inaki didn’t summit Kang. In fact, after Annapurna, Kangchenjunga was to be his “last” peak, and he wanted to climb it with Nives and Romano.

“It will not be the same without him,” the couple had said about Inaki who was injured and unable to join their Makalu winter attempt. When in turn Nives was hurt on Makalu, Inaki countered: “I feel like waiting till Nives recovers to share Kangchenjunga with them, because friendship is much more meaningful than mountains,” he said.

The (lack of) fame.

Inaki was a fast climber. He summited many of his 12, 8000ers in speed ascents; and Shisha alone via a new route variation, in conditions that made everyone else turn back. Still he got little attention. Asked why, Inaki said: “I think my name does not sound Slovenian enough!!… How about ‘New route on Shisha Pangma, solo and in 13 hours, by ex-communist ugly powerhorse Iñakek Ochoovich’? :)”

Inaki was referring to prestigious climbing awards inclined to favor obscure climbs made by cool-looking individuals with exotic names, but his stunt in 2003 as professional/sponsored climber had already made him reject this kind of career in any case. “Most of the general media does not have the education or knowledge to understand what is worthy of attention or not,” he said. “Most of the time they cover only fatal accidents or Everest summiteers.”

The best climbers.

While speed is a way to climb safely; on the 8000ers the only important thing is to stay alive, “the rest is secondary,” Inaki said.

Still, he was awed when Jorge Egocheaga descended all the way from the summit of Manaslu to Base Camp in under four hours. His own speed climb on Dhaula (in a single, very windy 24 hour push “Kazakh style”) was Inaki’s tribute to Anatoli Boukreev, who made the fastest climb on the peak ever in 1995 (17 hours and 15 minutes).

Inaki had in fact been invited to the climber’s fatal Annapurna winter climb. “He was The Man, and some of us learned a whole lot from him,” Inaki said. “Now we can wink an eye and say, ‘Toli, we are following your tracks’…”

Inaki climbed seven of his 8,000m-plus peaks in this light and fast style; with Shisha Pangma leaving him “as finished as my body and mind can be, and took me to a place inside myself that I had never been.” (He sent the first video to ExWeb straight after.)

Once getting a taste of the swift climbing style, Inaki would not change it. While there was just one Anatoli, Inaki said, three of the fastest Himalaya mountaineers in the world today are Denis Urubko, Jorge Egocheaga and Joby Ogwyn.

He admired all mountaineers who were strong, honest and dedicated; and still trying to find their own limits: Simone, Nives, Romano, Denis, Stremfelj, Kozjec, Prezelj, the Russians, the Kazakhs, Hamor, Egocheaga, Morawski, Kopold, Gerlinde and Ralf, House, Iñurrategi, Kammerlander, Steck, the Pou brothers, Zabalza… “exactly the same life as Lafaille and Boukrev and some others (gone, but not forgotten) had,” Inaki said.

He tolerated no criticism of his mates: “Talk is cheap at the bar,” he snapped. “There will always be people who prefer to just watch, and talk, rather than climb, and so…shut up already.”

To live forever.

We refused to accept the end. As soon as it became known that Inaki was in trouble, a tremendous rescue attempt took off. Folks all over the world joined hands in the efforts; kept on edge night and day while climbers in Nepal threw themselves onto Annapurna’s south wall as if it were a hiking peak. The urgency, and the wish for Inaki to live made heroes out of ordinary men; in turn presenting a beautiful example to the rest of the world.

Back at the computers, no one could sleep. Emails jetted between South America, Europe, and US with information about the weather, the logistics, and latest from the climbers on the peak. “Is nobody sleeping in this world?” we wrote in our last email to the massive thread of names. “We are in Colorado, it’s past midnight and we don’t sleep either,” came the last reply - from Don Bowie’s folks.

We had just got word that Inaki’s state was worsening, and now even folks in Pakistan joined in trying the impossible mission of getting “the fearless four” choppers to Nepal.

We stepped out into the night for a bit of fresh air. The sky was lit by a full moon. “Wonder if Inaki can see it too,” I sulked to Tom. “Whatever happens, this rescue attempt is his legacy. Besides, Annapurna south face is a worthy place to go,” I added.

Still, we were hopeful - a bit elated even - things were moving fast now, and climbers were closing in on Inaki’s little tent.

Back inside the house, Tom glanced at the latest Skype message on the computer. “Oh no,” he said. A cold drift swept through the room. The flickering note was from Lena at RussianClimb:

“I’m sorry, guys. Just spoke to Sergey. We were too late. Inaki didn’t make it.”

It took over a week before I could write my story. Going over all his interviews with us, I had my last chat with Inaki. Here are two lines that I think he would have liked to leave us with:

“Finish or not, walking my path in the Himalayas has been fulfilling, teaching, humbling and very much worth it. Let’s just keep on doing it; let’s climb!!”

[This story was written by ExplorersWeb founder Tina Sjogren.]

Inaki Ochoa de Olza had only Kangchenjunga and Annapurna left for the complete list of 14, 8000ers. In addition to his 12 summits, Inaki also had summited Cho Oyu twice more, plus Shisha central and the fore summit of Broad peak.

In 2006, Inaki summited Manaslu and then Shisha Pangma main in less than 15 hours. Climbing alone in conditions that had turned away all other mountaineers, he followed a new variation from C3. For that climb he was awarded among ExplorersWeb’s Best of 2006.

Ochoa was born in Pamplona, Spain on May 29, 1967. He had his first experience on an 8000+ meter peak, Kangchenjunga, at age 22. He had since taken part in over 30 Himalayan expeditions and also worked as high altitude cameraman and guide.

Ochoa always climbed with long time friends who shared his criteria: ascending without O2 or Sherpas and minimizing the use of fixed ropes.

Inaki liked writing, music (Manu Chao, punk rock as well as the classis - Van Morrison, Credence, Leonard Cohen, Joan Baez, Lou Reed, Bob Dylan) and literature - Inaki had more than 500 climbing books at home. His all time favorite movie was Monty Python’s “Life of Brian” and his favorite book was “A confederacy of dunces” by John Kennedy Toole.

Inaki leaves behind a set of parents he loved, and two younger brothers he admired.

Full Story

** Inaki’s website : - http://www.navarra8000.com/

Navarra’s goverment has acorded to give all 14 climbers, who were in rescue team on Annapurna and to Inaki Ochoa the Gold Medal to the Sport Merit, he most important honor in the region sport. The climbers are Romanians Horia Colibasanu, Alex Gavan and Mihnea Radulescu; Swiss Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten; Russians Alexey Bolotov and Serguey Bogomolov; Kazakh Denis Urubko; Canadian Don Bowie; Polish Robert Szymczak and five Sherpas: Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Ongchu Sherpa, Wangchu Sherpa and Chhiring Finjo Sherpa.

Powyżej podziękowania od rządu Navarry dla himalaistów, którzy brali udział w akcji ratowniczej na Annapurnie.

Niestety mimo wysiłków ratowników nie udało się uratować himalaisty - Inaki Ochoa.

Dramat Inaki Ochoa de Olza - list w podziękowaniu za zasługi Roberta Szymczaka.

Drodzy przyjaciele z Polski,

Nazywam się Pablo Ochoa de Olza i mój brat Inaki zginął w dramatycznych okolicznościach na Annapurnie w ostatni piątek (zob. Dramat na Annapurnie). Byłaby to tylko kolejna śmierć na tej górze, gdyby nie jeden szczegół: 15 osób z różnych krajów przeprowadziło akcję ratunkową, która na długo pozostanie w naszej pamięci. Ta historia będzie zawsze przykładem odwagi i współpracy między ludźmi, solidarności i dobrej woli. Jest to historia wielkich ludzi. Piszę te słowa po to, aby wytłumaczyć wam, że polski doktor Robert Szymczak, powinien być traktowany jak prawdziwy bohater.

W poniedziałek 19 maja, Inaki Ochoa de Olza, będąc na wyprawie z Aleksjejem Bołotowem i Horią Colibasanu, dostał obrzęku mózgu w obozie 4 i natychmiast rozpoczęła się niesamowita, wysokogórska akcja ratunkowa. Rosjanie, Kazachowie, Szwajcarzy, Rumuni, Polacy, Nepalczycy, Kanadyjczycy i Hiszpanie rozpoczęli wyścig z czasem.

W zeszłym tygodniu miałem, po raz pierwszy w życiu, szansę porozmawiać z Robertem w Kathmandu. Wytłumaczyłem powagę sytuacji i zapytałem go: “Czy możesz pomóc?” Odpowiedział: “Tak” - było to takie proste i takie nieskomplikowane. Nie musiał się nad niczym zastanawiać, nie szukał żadnych wymówek, nie zgłaszał żadnych zastrzeżeń, po prostu powiedział “Tak” i wskoczył do helikoptera.

Polski doktor Robert Szymczak, wraz z rosyjskimi wspinaczami Sergiejem Bogomołowem i Aleksjejem Bołotowem, Szwajcarami Ueli Steck i Simonem Anthamaten, Rumunami Horia Colibasanu, Minhea Radulescu i Alexem Gavan, Kanadyjczykami Nancy Morin i Donem Bowie oraz Nepalczykami Pema Ongchu Sherpa, Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Ongchu Sherpa, Wangchu Sherpa i Chhiring Finjo Sherpa rozpoczęli wspinaczkę. Akcja była koordynowana przez lokalną grupę wsparcia z Pamplona (Hiszpania), utworzoną przez Koldo Aldaz, Jorge Nagore, Cristina Orofino, Koldo Martinez oraz przeze mnie. Nima Naru Sherpa dostarczał środków i włożył w całą akcję dużo wysiłku z Kathmandu, a Javier Corripio pomagał z Austrii, dostarczając specjalistycznej prognozy pogody. Wiele innych osób zaoferowało swoją pomoc na górze, w tym Maksut Żumajew i inni - nie licząc na żadne wynagrodzenie. Po prostu znali Inaki.

Za wszystkie ich wysiłki rząd Navarry nagrodził ich Złotym Medalem za Osiągnięcia Sportowe. Do poniedziałku jedynie 12 osób zostało wyróżnionych tym odznaczeniem, następnie przyznano dwa kolejne medale: jeden dla Inaki i jeden dla jego Grupy Ratowniczej, włączając w to Roberta.

Ten list został napisany, aby uhonorować syna Polski, Roberta Szymczaka, dzielnego człowieka, który nie zawahał się zaryzykować swojego życia, swoich projektów, swojego zdrowia, aby spróbować osiągnąć niemożliwe. Poświęcił wszystko, aby pomóc osobie, której nawet za dobrze nie znał. Przekroczył punkt, w którym nawet odważni zawracają. Dawał nam nadzieję, każdym swoim kolejnym krokiem, podejmowanym pomimo trudnych warunków pogodowych i zagrożenia lawinami.

Chciałem złożyć gratulacje rodzinie Roberta, jego przyjaciołom, jego ojczyźnie, że byli w stanie wychować takiego człowieka. Powinniście być z niego dumni.

Z poważaniem
Pablo Ochoa de Olza
tłum. Yankes

Robert Szymczak.

Lekarz specjalizujący się w medycynie ratunkowej (Katedra i Klinika Medycyny Ratunkowej Akademii Medycznej w Gdańsku), himalaista. Uczestnik (jako wspinacz i lekarz) eksploracyjnych oraz sportowych wypraw wysokogórskich: 2006/2007 - Nanga Parbat, 2006 - Passu Sar, 2005 - Lobuche East, Pik Lenina, Chan Tengri. 11 maja 2008 roku zdobył Dhaualagiri. Członek International Society for Mountain Medicine oraz Wilderness Medical Society. Prowadzi firmę MedEverest.

*** Źródła: - http://himalman.wordpress.com/ - http://www.wspinanie.pl/, mounteverest.net